Everyone learns to ride their bike with a flat pedal, the classic pedal type made of aluminum with a large platform and a series of pins to hold your feet properly. Because of how easy it is to learn and disengage, these pedals are typically the go-to choice for beginners. 

After a while, many mountain bikers switch to clipless or clip-in pedals, especially if they're planning to take on some challenging terrains. You clip your shoe into the pedals, which significantly up your pedaling efficiency and power. Besides that, you can also set your seat height with a high level of accuracy since your feet are stuck to the same spot. 

At the end of the day, you should pick your pedals and mountain bike shoes based on your riding style. That said, the general rule is to not make the jump from a flat pedal to clipless pedals too quickly since that prevents you from honing your cycling skills. It might also be dangerous if you couldn't jump off your bike quickly after an accident.

Although you can use a road cycling shoe or sneakers with flat pedals, it's much better to wear a flat pedal shoe. 

Flat shoes are a versatile option for casual mountain bikers who like to ride and walk during their excursions. With a sticky rubber outsole, it provides a better grip on your pedals. Besides that, these shoes also typically have a firm midsole and often include some impact-absorbing material to protect your heel and toes. 

Wearing the best flat shoes inspires beginners' and experts' confidence since you're not clipped into the flat pedal. If you're involved in an accident, you can jump off quickly without worrying about going down with your bike. Besides that, these shoes offer no assistance, meaning you can perfect your fundamental riding techniques. 

On the flip side, your feet inevitably bounce off the pedals on bumps, which makes it much harder to pedal through challenging terrains and uphills. Besides that, your shoe could be prematurely damaged by the flat pedal pins. Not to mention how painful it is when you hit your shins on the pedals.

A clipless cycling shoe is made to clip onto the pedals so that you can make full use of your pedaling. There are a few cleat systems that you can fit to the pedal, like two-bolt or three-bolt cleats. However, it's important to remember that the cleat comes with the pedals instead of the shoe-you'd have to fit the cleat to the shoe yourself. 

Since your feet are clipped to the pedals, all you need is a firm upstroke or two to keep your pace on challenging terrain. Not only that, but you'd also reduce the risk of injury since your feet move with the pedals.

The downside of using clipless shoes is that you won't be able to roam freely off-bike with the cleat pattern on your soles. Because of this, you'd have to bring an extra pair of shoes, adding extra bulk and weight to your backpack.

Sole Construction

The sole is arguably the most critical part of MTB shoes. Most of these shoes are typically made of nylon or carbon fiber, depending on your riding style or what you need. 

Nylon soles are typically found in entry-level or urban shoes because they're more cost-effective. Because of their flexibility, they are ideal for both walking and cycling. A carbon outsole, however, helps you pedal faster and longer by prioritizing power transfer and efficiency. The stiff sole allows you to conquer difficult-to-ride terrains like steep hills and rocky trails. 

Comfort

When you're on the trail, you'd want your bike comfort to be as high as possible. Heat causes your feet to expand and blood to pool as you ride, which is why having comfortable shoes is extremely important. Not only does it reduce the risk of injury, but you'd also be able to go further. 

Most mountain bike shoes are made of durable and breathable synthetic materials. A knitted upper allows a lot of airflow through your shoe, making it suitable for warmer and more humid climates. If you're planning to ride in colder temperatures, you should choose a well-insulated shoe to protect your feet from low temperatures, debris, and water. 

Closure System

• Lace: A classic closure system, lace offers a balance of upper foot comfort, adjustability, and lightness. However, they're hard to adjust when you're riding, which might mean more stops during your excursions. 
• Velcro Straps: They offer a lot of on-the-go adjustability, which is a valuable thing in mountain biking. However, it's not uncommon for the velcro to lose its grip after a year or so.  
• Rotary Dials: Rotary dials are one of the most popular closure systems since they offer many on-the-fly adjustments while offering a quick-release option. The downside is that they tend not to play too well with overshoes, making them somewhat unsuitable for cycling in colder temperatures. The Boa S3 Snap Dial is one of the most popular rotary dials on the market. 
• Soft Instep Closure System: Made by SIDI, the soft instep closure system consists of a strap surrounded by soft and durable rubber that prevents the straps from digging into the instep of your foot. That being said, they tend to get worn after about a year, although you can change them yourself.

Other Features

• Toe cap: Like toe protection on work boots, toe caps protect your toes from tough tree roots, giant boulders, and any other obstacles that might damage your toes. 
• Waterproofing: Not every pair of mountain bike shoes come with waterproofing. But if you're planning to cycle a lot in rainy areas, having a shoe made of waterproof materials would work wonders on the trail as they prevent your feet from getting wet and soaked. 
• Reflective Features: When you're riding under low-light conditions, you'd want to make sure that you can be seen. Bright and reflective footwear can alert other mountain bikers of your position and reduce the chance of creating an accident. 

A pair of mountain bike shoes can check all the requirements of your list but would still mean nothing if you don't have the right fit. Without the perfect fit, you won't reap all the benefits of using a good shoe. Worse, you might even be hindered by shoes that are just a little too tight. 

When selecting your shoe, you need to make sure that they fit in length, forefoot width and provide a snug hold at the heel. You can use a size chart to choose the best cycling shoe, but it's still much better to go to a shop and try them on. 

That's because cycling shoes come in varying widths and shapes even though they're from the same brand. Some would have a narrower heel for slippage prevention, while others provide a wider toe box for splayed toes. If your feet' shape and size are more unusual, you can also opt for shoes with adjustable soles that you can customize to fit the contour of your feet. 

Another thing you should do when buying mountain bike shoes is to wear cycling-specific socks when trying on the shoe. Cycling socks are usually thinner than regular socks, which could affect the fit when you're riding on the trails.

Cross-Country (XC) Helmet

Cross-country helmets, also known as XC helmets, are the lightest and most breathable helmet type. If you're planning to coast down flowy singletrack, these helmets are a breeze and a pleasure to ride in. However, they don't do very well in gnarly downhills since they offer almost no protection from obstacles. 

Downhill Helmet

On the other end of the spectrum, you have downhill helmets that provide a ton of heavy-duty protection. If you're a downhill rider, you prioritize speed, and the last thing you want is to be smacked in the head by a branch as you zip down the mountain trails. 

The full face helmet is very popular among enduro and racing bikers because it offers extra coverage and protection with a sturdy unibody shell and visor. The downside is that it can get boiling inside, making this type of helmet unsuitable for longer rides. That said, many cyclists keep a full face helmet on hand anyway for more rigorous rides and use a lighter one as their primary helmet. 

Some opt for a full-face helmet with a removable chin bar to convert it to a helmet with more ventilation when they don't need so much protection. However, that does come with a pretty hefty price tag.

Trail Helmet

A trail helmet is an ideal compromise between the lightweight XC design and the full coverage downhill helmets. It offers a good amount of coverage around the temples, sides, and the back of your head while providing plenty of ventilation. 

A higher-end trail helmet also includes an adjustable visor and soft interior padding for extra protection and comfort for longer, more challenging rides. Because of its versatility, it's usually the go-to model for beginner and expert mountain bikers alike. 

A helmet's main job is to provide impact protection by absorbing impact energy and distributing the load evenly. 

Mountain biking helmets are made from Expanded Polystyrene(EPS) foam that compresses on impact. The EPS liner serves two purposes-cushioning the blow and distributing the force of the crash. Since the foam could split, helmet manufacturers use a hard, smooth outer shell to keep everything in place. Besides protecting your head from puncture-type accidents, the shell slides on the ground to protect you from jerky movements that could cause nasty neck injuries. 

Impact Protection Systems

Modern-day mountain biking helmets are constantly improving since safety is the number one concern for most mountain bikers. That's why many bike gear manufacturers include innovative impact protection technologies made to prevent further head injuries in an accident. 

One of the most popular mountain bike helmet systems is a multi-directional impact protection system (MIPS). A MIPS helmet uses a thin plastic lining inside the helmet that pivots the shell ever so slightly during impact to reduce any twisting forces delivered to your head. 

Finding the perfect fit is critical to ensure maximum effectiveness during an impact. It's also for your general comfort since mountain biking is already a physically demanding sport-you don't need your helmet to make it harder for you. 

When your helmet is too loose, it flops around your head and makes riding on a rough trail a harrowing experience. But if it's too tight, it constricts your head, and you might end up with a pounding headache at the end of the day. 

That's why it's essential to buy a helmet that fits perfectly. Theoretically, all models use a one-size-fits-all across all brands. But if you're into serious riding, you should invest in a helmet that comes in multiple sizes or a more sophisticated fit system. 

Helmet sizes are based on the broadest part of your head, which is approximately an inch above your eyebrows. The ideal way to measure your head is, of course, using a measuring tape. Try to keep the tape as level as possible and above your ears. You should also use a mirror to check and re-measure a few times to ensure that your numbers are good. 

A well-fitting helmet sits level on your head and feels snug without any retention systems in place. When trying on the helmet, push the helmet from side to side and back to front. The helmet should not tilt or move too much when you fiddle with it.

Ventilation

It's inevitable to sweat buckets when you're on your mountain bike. That's why no matter which design you choose, you should always pick one that includes plenty of air vents in the helmet. The more air vents there are, the easier it is to disperse hot air and the cooler you'll feel on the trails. 

But ventilation isn't just about the number of vents on your helmet. There are also multiple factors involved, including the padding thickness and the MIPS liner inside the helmet. Even though they provide comfort and protection, they also tend to interrupt the airflow. 

Weight

Think about it—how does it feel to wear a bowling ball on your head when cycling down rough mountain trails? 

While extra protection might feel more critical initially, the heavier helmet might put a lot of stress on your neck and shoulders. On the other hand, there's no point in wearing a full-face helmet over the much sleeker and lighter XC helmet when you're doing some casual riding, so pick one that suits your preferred riding style the best.

Padding And Comfort

You're going to wear the bicycle helmet for an extended time, so you have to make sure you're 100% comfortable in it. 

Padding does more than just provide comfort—like the chin strap, it also keeps your helmet in place for maximum impact protection. Not only that, but it should also provide enough ventilation to keep you cool on the trail. Some helmets even come with a machine-washable removable liner to make them more hygienic. You can also add more padding to make it as thick or thin as you want it. 

Retention System

The retention system has evolved beyond the straps under your chin. Now, most modern helmet designs include an additional retention system behind your head that can be adjusted to fine-tune your fit. 

There are a few variations-older models use a thumbwheel while others use more advanced fasteners like the glove-compatible Fidlock Magnetic Buckle. Regardless, you should always ensure that you can adjust the retention system with one hand while you're riding. 

Higher-end helmets also offer some height adjustment for the perfect head fit. You can try to fit a cotton cap under the helmet and retention system to see if it suits you. You should also remember that retention systems are meant to keep the helmet on your head in a crash. If it takes too much adjusting for the helmet to fit you, it most likely doesn't. 

Women-Specific Features

Most of the helmets on the market are unisex, but certain women-specific features might make your riding trip more comfortable. For one, women's bike helmets have smaller diameter sizes and are typically more colorful. Besides that, some also provide ponytail support for long hair. 

Don't worry-these helmets are only optimized to make life easier for women. The impact protection technology and safety protection aren't compromised.

1. Can climbing helmets be used as biking helmets?

No, since climbing helmets and biking helmets are built based on different specifications. Climbing helmets are designed to spread the impact of falling rocks and debris across your entire skull. They won't do very well when a rock or branch comes hurling at high speed. 

An MTB helmet, however, is designed to take the impact from flying debris. Not only that, but they go through several rounds of rigorous safety checks to ensure their effectiveness against trail obstacles. 

2. How much should I spend on mountain bike helmets?

Mountain bike helmets are available in an extensive price range. You can find cheaper helmets from $20 onwards or higher-ends that start at $60. It depends on the helmet material and its features. For example, carbon fiber composite is the most durable and lightest helmet material, but it is often more expensive than plastic. You would also need to pay more for advanced safety features and other bells and whistles.  

For some mountain bikers, saddle sore is the push they needed to transition into padded bike shorts. Even if your saddle is cushioned, you’d inevitably suffer from these painful lesions without a pair of padded shorts. 

Padded bike shorts form a layer of cushioning between your nether regions, rear, and saddle. Not only do they protect you from saddle sores, but they also relieve some pressure from your lower half. Besides that, the padding in the bike shorts also absorbs the vibrations from your bike tires that could cause soreness and pain.  

The chamois is the star of the show as it provides all the benefits you get from wearing biker shorts. Simply put, it’s the final line of defense between your nether regions and the saddle. 

Chamois are typically made with foam, gel padding, and a soft fabric cover. But, no matter what type of fabric cover it uses, it’s made of an antibacterial material to prevent urinary tract infection. Not only that, but the chamois pad is specifically designed to wick sweat and moisture away from your body.

Mountain Bike Shorts (MTB Shorts)

MTB shorts are typically baggier and feature many practical design choices that a mountain biker would find helpful. They are made of rugged but lightweight nylon fabric that provides better protection and ventilation. They also come with many pockets.

• Best Mountain bike shorts: Bontrager Rhythm ($80) 

The Bontrager Rhythm is built to withstand rough trails with durable but lightweight materials. Besides that, they also have plenty of smartly placed pockets (two front ones, one below your hip, and a small zippered thigh pocket) and a secure buckle system to help fine-tune your fit. The 14” inseam falls below the knee for many MTB riders, giving you the option to add knee pads if you want to. 

Road Shorts/ Waist Shorts

Road shorts, or waist shorts, are the tight-fitting shorts that most people think of when we bring up cycling shorts. They are typically made of Lycra or some other moisture-wicking and breathable synthetic materials. Not only that, but the design also reduces wind speed and provides more aerodynamics, making them perfect for racing. 

Road bike shorts are generally cheaper and often a good ‘first cycling short’ option for those new to the sport. You can quickly put them on and take them off since they are secured with an elastic waistband. The downside is that the waistband might cut into your waist on longer rides. 

• Best road shorts for men: Baleaf Men’s 3D Padded Pants Tights ($29.99)

The Baleaf Men’s 3D Padded Pants Tights strike a good compromise between performance, fit, durability, and price tag. They use a stretchy, breathable, moisture-wicking fabric with reflective details to increase visibility. Not only that, but it also comes equipped with silicone leg grippers to hold the shorts in place.

• Best women’s cycling shorts: Samsara Performance 9” Short ($149)

As a women-led company, Samsara has tons of experience designing women’s shorts. The Performance 9” Short has an 11” chamois, making cycling for long hours extremely comfortable. It also uses a mesh-like inner layer to encase the chamois to avoid abrasions from the seams. These durable yet fashionable shorts are available in four colors. 

Cycling Bib Shorts

Bib shorts have bib straps attached to the main body of the shorts. Since they are usually more comfortable and fit better, these are a must-have in every serious cyclists’ kit. 

The bib straps hold up your shorts to eliminate the possibility of having a tough piece of fabric at your waist digging into your stomach. It’s also nearly impossible for them to slip off, so you don’t have to worry about exposing yourself to your fellow cyclists behind you. Not only that, but the straps also keep the chamois in place to reduce any blisters or unwanted chafing. 

The downside to these shorts is that they make emergency toilet breaks a bit more complicated as there’s an extra step of taking them off. They could also be too hot to wear during hot days since heat and sweat accumulate under the straps. 

• Best bib shorts for men: Giordana Men’s FR-C Pro Bib Short ($250) 

The Giordana Men’s FR-C Pro Bib Short is explicitly made for high-mileage rides and races. It uses a blend of Lycra panels on different parts of your shorts to provide the most benefits. For example, it has anti-abrasion for the seat and inner leg with compressive Lycra on the front and sides. In addition, the upper part of the bib is constructed of breathable mesh to prevent overheating during long rides.

• Best bib shorts for women: Pearl Izumi Women’s Pursuit Attack Bib Short ($80)

The Pursuit Attack Bib offers moderate compression throughout the leg for better blood circulation and a wide silicon edge to the leg to keep your shorts from riding up. Not only that, but they also have a lot of stretches to accommodate different body types. They have a drop-tail design in the back that makes mid-ride nature calls a lot more pleasant and faster. These shorts are cut from recycled polyester, making them an eco-friendly and sustainable choice for nature lovers. 

Ideal Fabrics To Look For

Most padded bike shorts use synthetic materials since these materials typically dry faster, keep sweat away from your body, and prevent bacteria from growing. 

Nylon and polyester are two of the most commonly used materials in cycling shorts—nylon being the more rugged of the two. But regardless of the primary material, the most comfortable pair of biking shorts are blends that contain at least 15% spandex. That’s because spandex offers stretch and compression while holding up to the abrasions of the cycling motion against your bike seat. The higher the spandex content, the more stretchable it’ll be. 

Lycra bike shorts are also great since they stay in place no matter how much you move. This limits abrasions and keeps you more comfortable when you’re cycling. Not only that, but they also shed heat very quickly and wicks moisture away. 

Pockets

Although you keep most of your gear in your backpack, you’d still need pockets on your shorts. You can store your trail map, energy bars, some cash, or even your phone if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous. 

There are three different orientations of pockets for MTB shorts. Side cargo pockets are usually more spacious, making them perfect for holding bulkier items like your phone or wallet. Front slash pockets are located at your waist, while rear-center pockets are below your waistband. 

Tightness

We get it—you might not feel the most comfortable in skin-tight cycling shorts. But having your shorts adhere to your skin brings a few more benefits, like increasing your aerodynamics and speed while reducing the chances of being caught in a rogue branch. 

Regardless, the most important thing when it comes to tightness is how comfortable you feel in them. If you’re more comfortable with baggy shorts, you can opt for loose cycling shorts with built-in leg gripper-elastic bands at the leg of your pants with silicon on them to prevent your shorts from riding up. 

Inseam Length

Inseam is the length of your shorts from your crotch to the end of the leg opening. As a general rule of thumb, you should choose shorts that end slightly above your knee. That’s because you need your shorts to protect your inner thighs from rubbing against the saddle. In colder weather, you can wear cycling shorts that are padded down to the legs. 

Chamois Thickness

Like we’ve mentioned before, the chamois is the most critical part of padded cycling shorts. They can be made from fabric, foams, and gels to offer optimal cushioning and shock absorption. 

Typically, thicker and denser pad linings are made of 3D gel padding and are better for longer rides. Besides that, they should also be carefully placed to optimize your cycling position. 

Panels And Construction

Cycling shorts are made of panels that contour the shorts to fit properly on your body when you’re cycling. As a general rule of thumb, the more panels your shorts have, the more curved they are and the more natural they feel. 

The panels aren’t the only thing that matters—construction is essential too. For example, when buying cycling shorts, you should look for flatlock stitching that feels smooth against your skin. That’s because raised seams can cause painful pressure points and abrasions from the cycling motion. 

Less expensive shorts usually have a 6-panel design, while higher-end shorts can go up to 12 panels. However, there are new designs that use stretch fabrics that fit pretty well without the paneling design.

Your bike shorts can handle a lot on the trail, but their lifespan might be severely shortened by strong detergent and unforgiving washing machine cycles. 

We know that hand washing your gear is the last thing on your mind after a tiring biking trip. However, you should always hand wash your shorts to maximize the number of uses you get from your shorts. Not only that, you should soak your shorts in cold, soapy water to rid your shorts of all the bacteria from sweat after gently rubbing them in mild detergent. 

Lycra and sweat are not best friends, and your shorts will erode after marinating in your sweat for too long. If you don’t have time, you should rinse your shorts with cold water and let them air dry until you hand wash them. 

Alternatively, you can get machine-safe shorts that you can pop into the washer. Before putting your shorts in a delicate cycle, make sure to put them in a laundry bag to protect them from zippers, velcro, and the metal drum of the washing machine.

With a rough sport like mountain biking, you're bound to fall or injure yourself no matter how careful you are. That's why gloves are so essential: to ensure that your hands are kept free from pain even in the event of a horrible crash. 

Besides that, mountain cyclists are also prone to nerve damage from the impact of riding your bike. Wearing a padded mountain bike glove can drastically dampen the vibrations and shocks to your hand and subsequently minimize nerve damage. It's also much more comfortable to ride with gloves, allowing you to go on long bike trips.

On sunny afternoons, you might lose some control over your bike from sweaty palms. MTB gloves (mountain biking gloves) are made to absorb sweat while keeping your hands dry when cycling, which allows you to grip onto the handlebars for extended periods without losing control. Not only that, but some gloves even have a built-in soft towel on the thumb to quickly dab off sweat from your forehead on an intense excursion.

Fit

Your hands do a lot of heavy lifting when you're biking, so you'd want to make sure that the fit is perfect. One of the most important factors to consider is getting the right size, but since every brand varies from size to size, the best way to know your size is by measuring your hand.  

If your gloves are too tight, they will restrict your movements and cause some severe chafing. But if they're too loose, they might get caught on branches or affect your grip and control. The webbing between your fingers should also be taut. 

Try making a fist with your hands with the gloves on—if you can't do it, it's way too tight. But if it bunches up in your hand, it's too loose.  

Comfort Level

Small, well-made interior seams make all the difference in the comfort level of a good MTB glove. Conversely, poor seam placements create hotspots and blisters that could make your ride a living hell. This is why high-end brands often find clever ways to keep the seams away from the fingertips where they could potentially distract you. 

Look for breathability and comfort in the fabric itself. MTB gloves can be constructed with a range of different materials—whether it's polyester, synthetic leather, or lycra. Other riders prefer different fabrics, so make sure that your gloves can absorb sweat and let out the heat. For winter gloves, make sure that they have good insulation to keep your blood flowing. 

Touchscreen Compatibility

Touchscreen compatibility has become a common feature in cycling-specific gloves to make it more convenient for bikers to check their phones during their trip.

That being said, it could be a hit or miss as some designs and materials seem to work better. There's no single style that consistently performs better than the rest, so try out different brands to see how well they do for you. 

Durability

Between constant contact with the handlebars, encounters with branches, and protecting you from crashes, your gloves must be able to handle some abuse. 

Durability is essential, as your gloves should at least last an entire season without falling apart. Besides choosing a pair of gloves made of durable fabric, you should also check if there are reinforcements in easily breakable parts like the webbing between the fingers and the palm. 

Grip

Sweaty hands and handlebars are not a good combination. Besides being uncomfortable, you'd also lose control over your bike, which can be challenging when you're zipping down the trail. 

Wearing gloves is great for grip on multiple levels. Some are built with a silicone grip on the thumb so that you can hold onto the bars better. Some are made of breathable material to prevent sweaty palms. Besides that, gloves with the optimal shape and fit for your hand would also help you perform better. 

If you have bigger hands, you might appreciate a thicker grip that prevents your hands from slipping. It would also help facilitate better gear shifting and braking. 

Padding

Some bikers don't like gloves with a padded palm since they can be uncomfortable from trapping too much heat. Others prefer it for its shock-absorption properties. So it really depends on how you feel when you wear the gloves. 

Another important factor to consider is nerve damage prevention. You might experience some hand numbness or tingling when you ride for an extended time. This condition is so common that it's even called 'Cyclist's Palsy'! 

You can minimize the damage from this with well-thought-out gel padding. Each gel pad should be positioned over the major nerves on your hand to provide maximum cushioning without completely dampening vibrations from your bike. It should also relieve pressure on your hand while you're riding. If you're on a budget, you can opt for a glove with foam padding. 

Both the fingerless cycling glove and its full-fingered counterpart have their own strengths and weaknesses. 

Fingerless gloves are much more breathable but provide a lot less security. However, for mountain bikers who need a lot more protection, full-fingered gloves might be preferable. They also provide extra grip for dangerous downhill rides and extra insulation for colder temperatures up in the mountains. 

Ultimately, it depends where you usually ride your bike. If you don't intend to ride for long, fingerless gloves might be your solution. But for longer distances and colder climates, full-fingered cycling gloves are the way to go.

Although brands race to produce the best gloves, your choice should adapt to the demands of your trip. What one biker considers the best might not be your cup of tea and vice versa. 

The most important thing to consider is what you need from it. For example, if you do a lot of cross-country riding, you should consider lightweight gloves that absorb a good amount of vibration and sweat. But if you're into enduro riding, you should opt for long gloves with gel pads on the palm to relieve pressure from your hand.

Besides that, you should also consider the amount of protection you need from your gloves. Downhill racers would naturally need more heavy-duty protection than trail riders. This also applies in special cases like in kids' bike gloves.

Since gloves are sized differently across brands, the most secure way to ensure that your fit is to measure your hand. 

Measure from the tip of your longest finger towards the base of your palm to determine how long your glove should be. You should also wrap the tape measure on the widest part of your palm and make a fist before you take the measurement. This will help you figure out your width. Using these measurements, you can accurately determine your glove size.

Although you can wear your favorite activewear when riding, mountain bike clothing can go a long way in making your ride more comfortable and safe. 

Like dressing for any occasion, you should pick your clothing based on the weather, temperature, and environment. For example, if you're heading off in the mountains, you should wear or pack heavy-duty clothes and warm socks for the cold. But if you're doing a short ride, you can get away with a simple t-shirt and shorts.

MTB Shorts

Although you can wear a regular pair of pants, they might hinder your movement and end up causing muscle fatigue or cramps. So when choosing the best mountain bike shorts, you must consider what cycling style you want to do.

For cross-country bikers, you'd want a pair of baggy shorts for maximum ventilation and movement. However, if downhill riding is more up to your speed, you should choose shorts made of durable material with bigger leg openings for your knee pads. 

Like MTB jerseys, MTB shorts are made of breathable synthetic materials. Not only that, but it also offers just enough room for easy leg movement without getting caught in your surroundings. 

The padded section of your bike shorts is the most critical part of MTB shorts. Also called a chamois, this padded crotch liner is made with foam of varying density to cater to different rides. Besides alleviating pressure in your nether regions, it also provides a friction-fighting fabric with antimicrobial properties to prevent chafing and bacteria.

Some padded shorts come with removable chamois so that you can sub in a thicker or thinner one, depending on your ride. They also ride higher at the back to cover your butt when you're riding.

Socks

As a general rule of thumb, your cycling socks should be thin enough to fit into your shoe and long enough to protect your legs from trail hazards. It would be best to opt for socks made of merino wool, nylon, or polyester since these materials wick away sweat and moisture. 

Besides looking cool, mountain biker socks might have extra features that amp up their sweat management and thermal balance properties. Cycling socks also tend to be thicker than normal ones, which makes them ideal for colder temperatures. Not only that, but some socks have anti-micro bacterial properties that prevent your feet from becoming a breeding ground for bacteria.

The most important thing is comfort and fit. Your socks should be snug since you don't want to cut off your blood circulation accidentally, but anything else is up to you and your cycling needs.

Shoes

Any comfortable shoe that you use for running and hiking would work for mountain biking. But if your love for mountain biking grows (and it probably would), it's better to invest in a pair of good mountain biking shoes. 

Beginner mountain bikers often start with flatter and stiffer MTB sneakers with a sticky rubber sole. This gives you more comfort and security since the shoe sticks to the flat pedal and allows you to dab your foot a little when things get wild on the trail. 

As you become a better rider, you might want to consider clipless mountain bike shoes. These shoes have cleats that clip onto your clipless pedals, keeping your feet in place while you're bouncing on the trail. This gives you a great deal of comfort and security even on the roughest terrains.

You don’t need to use a heart rate monitor while you are exercising. You can exercise “by feel” while paying attention to the changes in your body. However, your workouts could be more effective and efficient when you use a Peloton heart rate monitor.

Your heart rate shows you how intensely you are working out. For example, suppose your goal is to become fitter, improve your cardiovascular (heart) health, and burn calories and fat. In that case, you need to keep your heart rate at an elevated level for extended periods of time.

On the other hand, it is easy to overexert yourself if you push it for too long. A heart rate monitor can help you find the balance.

Heart rate monitors for the sports industry became popular in the 1980s. These monitors consisted of dry electrodes that were attached to your chest. The electrodes were usually connected to a heart rate sensor (attached to the chest strap) and a radio receiver that you can wear on your wrist.

The electrodes and sensor pick up and measure the electrical signals that your heart gives off each time it beats. This heart rate data is then sent to the receiver, which displays your heart rate.

The type of heart rate monitor you prefer depends on the activities you will be using it for, how and where you want to wear it, and how accurate you need the readings to be.

Exercise heart rate monitors can typically be worn either strapped around your chest (secured with a chest strap) or on your wrist (like a watch or armband). Armband heart rate monitors are slightly less cumbersome and feel a bit less invasive. On the other hand, chest strap monitors provide more accurate readings.

At present, Peloton heart rate monitors are only wearable around your chest. However, there are rumors that the company is producing a wrist wearable heart rate monitor and fitness tracker.

Some heart rate monitors have replaceable batteries. In some cases, these batteries could last up to a year or longer, depending on how often you use the monitor and how long you use it. Other heart rate monitors have rechargeable batteries.

If you opt for an HR monitor with a rechargeable battery, consider how long the battery will last while it is turned on. Ideally, the battery should at least last as long as your longest planned workout time. You also need to consider how long it takes for the battery to charge fully. This will avoid the need to postpone or cancel your workout or workout without it because your heart rate monitor is taking too long to charge.

The most important features to consider are whether the device is comfortable to wear, whether it can connect via Bluetooth or ANT+ technology, and sufficient battery life. Whether you chose a chest strap or armband heart rate monitor is up to your personal preference.

Whether they use the bike, the tread, or enjoy other workouts on the company’s app, Peloton users will benefit from working out with a heart rate monitor.

You don't need to use Peloton branded shoes to ride your Peloton bike. However, you need cycling shoes or spin shoes that can accommodate Look Delta cleats. These are the only type of cleats that can be used with the original Peloton bike pedals. Peloton cycling shoes come with these cleats, as do some other brands.

While Peloton shoes come with Look Delta cleats, other brands might not sell the cleats with their cycling shoes. In this case, you will need to purchase the shoe and the cleats separately. Some shoes can accommodate both Look Delta and SPD cleats.

Some people are apprehensive about riding clipless. There is something slightly unsettling about being connected to your bike pedals – at least at first. Having your foot secured to your bike pedal is safer, especially during more intense rides. There is a lower risk of your foot slipping off the pedal, leaving the spinning pedal to connect with your shin and potentially giving you a serious lower leg injury.

Clipless peddling means you don't need to constantly work at keeping your foot on the pedal. This can reduce foot fatigue and discomfort that is commonly caused by constantly pushing your foot down against the pedal. That way, your feet are less tired after intense rides.

Straddle your bike with one foot on each side. First, click in your dominant side before switching to the other foot. While standing, push the pedal down at its lowest position (around 6 o'clock). Place your foot on the Look Delta pedals with your toes slightly pointed down. This will help you find where the front of the clip needs to fit in. Once you have the right location, press down with your heel. The cleat will clip into the pedal with an audible "click." You can then clip in the other foot. This can be done either standing up or sitting down. Make sure that your cleat is correctly clipped by wiggling your foot from side to side. There should be a very small amount of movement.

You need to do some maintenance to make sure your Peloton bike pedals continue to work correctly and safely and to avoid pedal breakage. Peloton recommends that you inspect your bike's pedals at least once a month. During this inspection, look for any visible damage, ensure that the pedals are clean, and turn smoothly.

You may need to tighten your Peloton pedals every now and then. This is to make sure that they are still securely attached to the bike. To do this, turn the resistance knob all the way to the right. This will lock the flywheel and crank.

Hold the pedal level – the platform on which you rest your foot while cycling (called the pedal body) should be horizontal. Use a 15mm wrench to tighten the bolt that attaches the pedal to the crank arm. You will turn the wrench to your right (or clockwise) when tightening the right pedal. The left pedal has a reverse thread. The threads are different so that neither pedal loosens itself while you are pedaling forwards and backward. For the left pedal, you need to turn the wrench to the left or towards the front of the bike (or counterclockwise).

Turn the wrench until you cannot turn it anymore. That is how you will know that the pedal is secure.

Peloton bike pedals could fail due to wear and tear. Although the pedals come with a 12-month warranty, you may need to replace them more often, especially if you work out often and do many long or intense rides. To replace your Peloton pedals, you will need a set of new pedals, a 15mm wrench, and (or) a 6mm Allen key.

To remove your Peloton pedals:

1. Turn the resistance knob all the way to the right.
2. Use a 15mm wrench to remove the pedals where they attach to the crank arm.
3. Turn the wrench counterclockwise for the right pedal and clockwise for the left pedal.

Some Peloton bike pedals need to be removed with a 6mm Allen key. To remove the right pedal, turn the Allen key counterclockwise. The left pedal is removed by turning the Allen key clockwise.

To attach the right pedal, insert the pedal into the crank arm (remember that these need to be 9/16" pedals if you are not replacing your pedals with Peloton pedals). Then turn the pedal a quarter of a turn counterclockwise, so the threads catch. This will avoid damaging the threads because they don't align. Next, turn the pedal clockwise until you can no longer turn it by hand. Lastly, use a 15mm wrench to tighten the pedal securely. Turn the wrench clockwise until you can't turn it anymore.

Installing the left pedal follows the same steps. Remember that this side has reverse threads, so you will need to turn the pedal clockwise for the threads to catch and then tighten it by turning the pedal (or wrench) counterclockwise.

Keep in mind that you are not turning the pedal in each of these instances. Instead, you need to turn the bolt that attaches the pedal to the crank arm. You also need to remember that the left and right pedals have different threads. Take a look to see whether the pedals are marked "Left" and "Right." If not, you will quickly realize that you are working with the wrong pedal if it does not tighten when you turn it in the correct direction.

You may need to adjust your pedal tension from time to time. The tension screws hold your cleats securely to your pedal. These screws are located on the back (or bottom) of the pedals. You may need to do this if it is your first time clipping in and unclipping with new pedals and you are finding it difficult to do so. You might also need to adjust the pedal tension if your cycling shoes begin to feel loose in the pedals.

To adjust your pedal tension, turn the resistance knob all the way to the right to hold the flywheel and crank arms in place. Turn the pedal so that you can see the screws that are located on the bottom. The tension screw on each pedal has a plus and minus sign above it.

If it is too difficult to clip in to or out of your pedals, you can loosen this screw slightly. Remember that loosening it too much could damage the pedal or cause it to not function properly. Use a 3mm Allen key. Turn the Allen key counterclockwise towards the minus sign. Only loosen the screw fractionally, a quarter of a turn at a time. Try to clip in and clip out after each turn. Remember that you still need to use some pressure or force to clip and unclip. If it is too easy, you loosened the screw too much.

If your cycling shoes feel too loose in the pedals or too easy to clip and unclip, the tension screw needs to be tightened. In this case, you will use the Allen key to turn the screw clockwise towards the plus sign. Turn the screw a quarter of a turn at a time and try to clip in after each quarter turn. Do this until you need to use some force to clip in and unclip.

Older models of Peloton bikes came with a conversion kit that had toe cages clipped onto them. Peloton pedal conversion kits that are SPD-cleat compatible on one side and a toe cage on the other are now only available for commercial Peloton bikes. That is: hotels and fitness centers that have Peloton bikes for their guests or members to use.

You can find toe cages that could work with existing Look Delta Peloton pedals. These toe cages often attach to the crank arm or the pedal itself, depending on the pedal and the toe cage. They usually have a small platform that fits on top of your bike's pedal, making the platform slightly larger and thus safer to use without clipless cycling shoes.

You can also find toe cages that attach to a Look Delta cleat, the part that usually attaches to your shoe. This modified cleat then gets clipped into the pedal as you would do with your cleated cycling shoes. Cyclists then only need to slip their trainers into the toe cage to get the benefit of cycling with their feet attached to the pedal.

Online buying is much, much more convenient. You can do it anywhere, regardless of how few bike shops you have near you, and get a bike shipped to your home with a few days. You can also compare hundreds of thousands of options and hunt for price deals between different sites. Additionally, you can order spare parts quite easily if you run out (assuming you find the exact part you need).

Avoid extremely cheap and extremely expensive options. The best bikes come at around $500 to $900.

Although there are plenty of bikes outside of this price range, most beginners will find everything they need here. If you go cheaper than this, you risk finding a flimsy bike that cuts corners on quality. On the other hand, if you get something more expensive, you might find yourself investing a lot in a bike that has features you don’t need. 

One of the most common types of bikes, the commuter bike is a simple vehicle to get you to work. Bicycles are an excellent alternative to cars or public transit—you don’t pay for gas or wait for the bus to come.

A commuter bike is designed for easygoing road conditions, so don’t expect to take it on mountain trails anytime soon. You might also consider investing in accessories for better city riding, such as a helmet light and bike lock. Keeping your bike safe lets you keep riding it for a long time to come.

The term “road bike” can mean many things, but it generally refers to a great bike for taking outdoors. It’s somewhere between commuter bikes and mountain bikes. Whereas commuter bikes are city-only, and mountain bikes are usually reserved for rough roads, road bikes can go around the city AND make a path through offroad conditions. In more general terms, some people refer to road bikes as any bike type that is not an indoor bike (like an elliptical or stationary bike).

The age of electricity has given us tons of innovations, including the electric bike. This bike comes with a small motor to power the pedals as you ride. Instead of relying entirely on your own capabilities, electric bikes make riding easier and less strenuous.

Electric mountain bikes have surged in popularity because electricity makes rough roads easier. Instead of pedaling up that huge hill all by yourself, try flipping the lever and engaging the motor. Once the motor’s on, the uphill battle turns in your favor! The motor gives you the power you need to climb your trail’s mountains.

However, watch out for trails where electric bikes aren’t allowed. Bikers are (sometimes unfairly) blamed for trail damage and communities restrict them by outlawing certain bike types. Depending on your region, electric mountain bikes might not be allowed. Check your area’s website to ensure you don’t accidentally take your bike somewhere it’s not supposed to go.

There are even DIY electric bike kits, which help you put motors on regular bikes to upgrade them. You don’t need a specially-designed model as long as your bike matches the specifications for the kit. So no matter what bike you have, you can easily upgrade it to an electric model.

The kit comes with everything you need to make sure the bike can work: wires, a motor, and a way to connect the equipment to the pedals. You can even get electric components to help you pull down on the brake lever, which makes it easier to stop when riding on a downhill bike trail.

But make sure you’re protecting the electric components from damage. Mud, rain, dirt, and other hazards can seep into the motor and other parts, causing them to fail over time. Additionally, the motor will usually require a battery and/or regular charging. If your electric bike components stop working or the power runs out, you’ll be left on your own strength until you can get them working again. 

Ensure you aren’t taking unnecessary risks! Keep your bike motor charged and ready to go at all times, especially before long trips and treks in the rain. Use bike covers to shield your bike from the elements when it’s not in use. Proper bike maintenance keeps your ride in good condition for years to come.

A racing bike is made for speed rather than comfort. They’re usually made for paved roads and gentle trails that will lead you to first place. A racing bike can be a great TT bike (“Time Trial”) for optimizing your performance and helping you go faster.

Racing bikes aren’t built for comfort, as the seat is often stiffer and upright. Upright handlebars are better for fast riding while standing or leaning forward on the pedals, but that stance requires more skill to use. These bikes also aren’t ideal for beginners, but they’re great fun for experienced cyclists. For the serious competitor looking to cross the finish line before the competition, they do great work.

(See also “fixie bike,” a bike with fixed settings and is optimized for racing.)

You don’t need to use Peloton branded shoes to ride your Peloton bike. However, you need cycling shoes or spin shoes that can accommodate Look Delta cleats. These are the only type of cleats that can be used with the original Peloton bike pedals. Peloton cycling shoes come with these cleats, as do some other brands.

While Peloton shoes come with Look Delta cleats, other brands might not sell the cleats with their cycling shoes. In this case, you will need to purchase the shoe and the cleats separately. Some shoes can accommodate both Look Delta and SPD cleats.

Some people are apprehensive about riding clipless. There is something slightly unsettling about being connected to your bike pedals – at least at first. Having your foot secured to your bike pedal is safer, especially during more intense rides. There is a lower risk of your foot slipping off the pedal, leaving the spinning pedal to connect with your shin and potentially giving you a serious lower leg injury.

You need to do some maintenance to make sure your Peloton bike pedals continue to work correctly and safely and to avoid pedal breakage. Peloton recommends that you inspect your bike’s pedals at least once a month. During this inspection, look for any visible damage, ensure that the pedals are clean, and turn smoothly.

You may need to tighten your Peloton pedals every now and then. This is to make sure that they are still securely attached to the bike. To do this, turn the resistance knob all the way to the right. This will lock the flywheel and crank.

Hold the pedal level – the platform on which you rest your foot while cycling (called the pedal body) should be horizontal. Use a 15mm wrench to tighten the bolt that attaches the pedal to the crank arm. You will turn the wrench to your right (or clockwise) when tightening the right pedal. The left pedal has a reverse thread. The threads are different so that neither pedal loosens itself while you are pedaling forwards and backward. For the left pedal, you need to turn the wrench to the left or towards the front of the bike (or counterclockwise).

Turn the wrench until you cannot turn it anymore. That is how you will know that the pedal is secure.

Peloton bike pedals could fail due to wear and tear. Although the pedals come with a 12-month warranty, you may need to replace them more often, especially if you work out often and do many long or intense rides. To replace your Peloton pedals, you will need a set of new pedals, a 15mm wrench, and (or) a 6mm Allen key.

To remove your Peloton pedals, turn the resistance knob all the way to the right. Next, use a 15mm wrench to remove the pedals where they attach to the crank arm. Turn the wrench counterclockwise for the right pedal and clockwise for the left pedal. Some Peloton bike pedals need to be removed with a 6mm Allen key. To remove the right pedal, turn the Allen key counterclockwise. The left pedal is removed by turning the Allen key clockwise.

To attach the right pedal, insert the pedal into the crank arm (remember that these need to be 9/16” pedals if you are not replacing your pedals with Peloton pedals). Then turn the pedal a quarter of a turn counterclockwise, so the threads catch. This will avoid damaging the threads because they don’t align. Next, turn the pedal clockwise until you can no longer turn it by hand. Lastly, use a 15mm wrench to tighten the pedal securely. You need to turn the wrench clockwise until you can’t turn it anymore.

Installing the left pedal follows the same steps. Remember that this side has reverse threads, so you will need to turn the pedal clockwise for the threads to catch and then tighten it by turning the pedal (or wrench) counterclockwise.

Keep in mind that you are not turning the pedal in each of these instances. Instead, you need to turn the bolt that attaches the pedal to the crank arm. You also need to remember that the left and right pedals have different threads. Take a look to see whether the pedals are marked ‘Left’ and ‘Right.’ If not, you will quickly realize that you are working with the wrong pedal if it does not tighten when you turn it in the correct direction.

You may need to adjust your pedal tension from time to time. The tension screws hold your cleats securely to your pedal. These screws are located on the back (or bottom) of the pedals. You may need to do this if it is your first time clipping in and unclipping with new pedals and you are finding it difficult to do so. You might also need to adjust the pedal tension if your cycling shoes begin to feel loose in the pedals.

To adjust your pedal tension, turn the resistance knob all the way to the right to hold the flywheel and crank arms in place. Turn the pedal so that you can see the screws that are located on the bottom. The tension screw on each pedal has a plus and minus sign above it.

If it is too difficult to clip in to or out of your pedals, you can loosen this screw slightly. Remember that loosening it too much could damage the pedal or cause it to not function properly. Use a 3mm Allen key. Turn the Allen key counterclockwise towards the minus sign. Only loosen the screw fractionally - a quarter of a turn at a time. Try to clip in and clip out after each turn. Remember that you still need to use some pressure or force to clip and unclip. If it is too easy, you loosened the screw too much.

If your cycling shoes feel too loose in the pedals, or if it is too easy to clip and unclip, the tension screw needs to be tightened. In this case, you will use the Allen key to turn the screw clockwise towards the plus sign. Turn the screw a quarter of a turn at a time and try to clip in after each quarter turn. Do this until you need to use some force to clip in and unclip.

Older models of Peloton bikes came with a conversion kit that had toe cages clipped onto them. Peloton pedal conversion kits that are SPD-cleat compatible on one side and a toe cage on the other are now only available for commercial Peloton bikes. That is: hotels and fitness centers that have Peloton bikes for their guests or members to use.

You can find toe cages that could work with existing Look Delta Peloton pedals. These toe cages often attach to the crank arm or the pedal itself, depending on the pedal and the toe cage. They usually have a small platform that fits on top of your bike’s pedal which makes the platform slightly larger and thus safer to use without clipless cycling shoes.

You can also find toe cages that attach to a Look Delta cleat, the part that usually attaches to your shoe. This modified cleat then gets clipped into the pedal as you would do with your cleated cycling shoes. Cyclists then only need to slip their trainers into the toe cage to get the benefit of cycling with their feet attached to the pedal.